As I moved away from Seoul last year, and started studying at Yonsei University's Korean Language Institute (연세한국어학당http://www.yskli.com), I've let sleeping blogs lie. However, as I move back to Seoul this Friday, with perhaps more time to actually "see" Seoul, there will be a revival.
Maybe.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Thursday, July 2, 2009
From COEX to Bongeunsa, Oh... My?
COEX Mall
http://www.coexmall.com
What makes COEX a great place to spend on a rainy day is the sheer amount of things to do under one roof. COEX is one of the largest malls in Asia, if not the largest, with a plethora of shops... cafes... restaurants... and more! For instance, today I went to Bandi & Luni's to browse their selection of English-language magazines, and then went to one of the Starbucks to relax with a coffee and read what I had just bought. Afterwards, a manicure (for W15,000) seemed appropriate. From there, I could have gone to the COEX Aquarium, the Kimchi Field Museum, or watched a film at the 17-screen Megabox theater. Instead, I chose to save some money, do something cultural, and head outside to Bongeunsa Temple across the road.
Bongeunsa
http://www.bongeun.org/
Bongeunsa was originally built in 794AD, and has been rebuilt and restored many times since. The best time to visit is between 14:00 and 16:00 on Thursdays, as the temple provides an English-language program as an introduction to the temple. However, I am unable to attend this program. According to the temple staff that I spoke with, the program costs W10,000 and includes a temple tour, making lotus lanterns, the dado tea ceremony, and seon meditation. It seems as though any visitor interested in Korean Buddhist temples would be well-advised to check it out.
The most visible draw of the temple is the hug statue of the Maitreya Buddha. It is 23m in height, and was built in 1996 as the largest statue of Buddha in Korea. There are numerous other buildings on the grounds, as well, including one which holds sutra carved into wooden blocks in the 1850s.
I hope to go to Bongeunsa again, perhaps on a temple stay. It would be convenient to be able to take the subway home.
http://www.coexmall.com
- admission: free
- subway: Line #2 (green) to Samsung Station/삼성역, exit #6
What makes COEX a great place to spend on a rainy day is the sheer amount of things to do under one roof. COEX is one of the largest malls in Asia, if not the largest, with a plethora of shops... cafes... restaurants... and more! For instance, today I went to Bandi & Luni's to browse their selection of English-language magazines, and then went to one of the Starbucks to relax with a coffee and read what I had just bought. Afterwards, a manicure (for W15,000) seemed appropriate. From there, I could have gone to the COEX Aquarium, the Kimchi Field Museum, or watched a film at the 17-screen Megabox theater. Instead, I chose to save some money, do something cultural, and head outside to Bongeunsa Temple across the road.
Bongeunsa
http://www.bongeun.org/
- admission: free
- subway: Line #2 (green) to Samsung Station/삼성역, exit #5
Bongeunsa was originally built in 794AD, and has been rebuilt and restored many times since. The best time to visit is between 14:00 and 16:00 on Thursdays, as the temple provides an English-language program as an introduction to the temple. However, I am unable to attend this program. According to the temple staff that I spoke with, the program costs W10,000 and includes a temple tour, making lotus lanterns, the dado tea ceremony, and seon meditation. It seems as though any visitor interested in Korean Buddhist temples would be well-advised to check it out.
The most visible draw of the temple is the hug statue of the Maitreya Buddha. It is 23m in height, and was built in 1996 as the largest statue of Buddha in Korea. There are numerous other buildings on the grounds, as well, including one which holds sutra carved into wooden blocks in the 1850s.
I hope to go to Bongeunsa again, perhaps on a temple stay. It would be convenient to be able to take the subway home.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
What a Waste
I did what with my day??
That's basically how I feel about my day today. I had the day free from work due to a lovely invention called "in-service", and what did I do with it? Travel to some interesting and exciting locale that must be taken as a day trip from Seoul? Explore new neighborhoods in Seoul itself? Wander the labyrinth of COEX mall, the largest in Asia?
No. I cleaned my goshiwon (고시원)... and talked to myself (a large part of what I do with this blog, anyway). My tiny little goshiwon, one that can barely be described as an apartment, is now impeccably clean. Of course, in its way, this feels like a great accomplishment. I'm living comfortably, everything smells nice, and I've finally done my dishes. But it is almost as though I feel an obligation to do things that are less mundane.
I'll be looking forward to the weekend again, then. I registered with Cheongwadae, the Blue House, and will be going on a (Korean language) tour with them on Saturday. Then Sunday, I'm off again to Cheorwon for some rafting and bungee jumping. I might even do something on Thursday afternoon in Seoul, as I've knocked out a large portion of my "to-do" list today.
But, still. What a waste.
That's basically how I feel about my day today. I had the day free from work due to a lovely invention called "in-service", and what did I do with it? Travel to some interesting and exciting locale that must be taken as a day trip from Seoul? Explore new neighborhoods in Seoul itself? Wander the labyrinth of COEX mall, the largest in Asia?
No. I cleaned my goshiwon (고시원)... and talked to myself (a large part of what I do with this blog, anyway). My tiny little goshiwon, one that can barely be described as an apartment, is now impeccably clean. Of course, in its way, this feels like a great accomplishment. I'm living comfortably, everything smells nice, and I've finally done my dishes. But it is almost as though I feel an obligation to do things that are less mundane.
I'll be looking forward to the weekend again, then. I registered with Cheongwadae, the Blue House, and will be going on a (Korean language) tour with them on Saturday. Then Sunday, I'm off again to Cheorwon for some rafting and bungee jumping. I might even do something on Thursday afternoon in Seoul, as I've knocked out a large portion of my "to-do" list today.
But, still. What a waste.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Ahoy, Mateys!
Rafting & Bungee Jumping
http://www.adventurekorea.com/ouradventure/calendar_content.asp?id=calendar&RowNo=411
The main draws for the trip are that it's organized, there are staff who speak English, and it's almost 100% guaranteed fun. The bus leaves from either Hongdae (Line #2, Hongik Univ. Station/홍대입구역, exit #1) at 07:00 or from the Express Bus Terminal (Lines #3 and #7, Express Bus Terminal/고속터미널, exit #8) at 07:30. From there, the tour moves on to the rafting site at the Hantan River, with one rest stop made along the way for people to change into their swimsuits.
Once at the rafting site, the crowd of foreigners is asked to divide itself into "teams" of nine. These "teams" will be on a boat together, along with a guide, and then they will be given a brief introduction to the dos and don'ts of rating on the Hantan. Don't worry, this isn't white-water rafting by any stretch of the imagination. While there are a few rapids, the majority of the time is spent playing games that result in at least half the boat in the water.
After cruising down the river for about 7 or 8 kilometers, the time as come to get out of the water and back onto dry land. A short bus ride later, and Adventure Korea members are taken to the lunch location, complete with a shower room. Change out of your wet clothes, and then tuck into a Korean-style buffet lunch before going on to the bungee jumping site. Light lunches are recommended for those who plan on jumping, as well as refraining from the beer.
The final stop of the day is the bungee jump, the only one in Korea that is done from a bridge. The price of the jump is not included in the tour, and will cost an extra W30,000 if going by one's waist... and an extra W35,000 if by the ankles. The jump is 52m in height, and no refunds are given if you chicken out. Deliberate carefully before shelling out the won, should you not be able to leave the platform.
The bungee jump can be a bit tedious, however. With more than 30 people usually jumping during an Adventure Korea trip, it can take a few hours. With your own jump lasting only a few minutes, the down time can prove to be boring. Thankfully, the scenery is gorgeous, and there is a mart that sells both beer and ice cream just down the way from where the spectators sit.
Finally, are you wondering about the title of this post? Thank the guide that was with my boat today... With his decision to steal people from other boats as we passed, he made our "team" feel all the more piratey. Looking to pilfer and plunder in northeastern Korea!
I'll be going on this trip again next week...
http://www.adventurekorea.com/ouradventure/calendar_content.asp?id=calendar&RowNo=411
- cost: W48,000
- location: Hantan River in Cheorwon, Gangwon-do/한탄강, 철원, 강원도
The main draws for the trip are that it's organized, there are staff who speak English, and it's almost 100% guaranteed fun. The bus leaves from either Hongdae (Line #2, Hongik Univ. Station/홍대입구역, exit #1) at 07:00 or from the Express Bus Terminal (Lines #3 and #7, Express Bus Terminal/고속터미널, exit #8) at 07:30. From there, the tour moves on to the rafting site at the Hantan River, with one rest stop made along the way for people to change into their swimsuits.
Once at the rafting site, the crowd of foreigners is asked to divide itself into "teams" of nine. These "teams" will be on a boat together, along with a guide, and then they will be given a brief introduction to the dos and don'ts of rating on the Hantan. Don't worry, this isn't white-water rafting by any stretch of the imagination. While there are a few rapids, the majority of the time is spent playing games that result in at least half the boat in the water.
After cruising down the river for about 7 or 8 kilometers, the time as come to get out of the water and back onto dry land. A short bus ride later, and Adventure Korea members are taken to the lunch location, complete with a shower room. Change out of your wet clothes, and then tuck into a Korean-style buffet lunch before going on to the bungee jumping site. Light lunches are recommended for those who plan on jumping, as well as refraining from the beer.
The final stop of the day is the bungee jump, the only one in Korea that is done from a bridge. The price of the jump is not included in the tour, and will cost an extra W30,000 if going by one's waist... and an extra W35,000 if by the ankles. The jump is 52m in height, and no refunds are given if you chicken out. Deliberate carefully before shelling out the won, should you not be able to leave the platform.
The bungee jump can be a bit tedious, however. With more than 30 people usually jumping during an Adventure Korea trip, it can take a few hours. With your own jump lasting only a few minutes, the down time can prove to be boring. Thankfully, the scenery is gorgeous, and there is a mart that sells both beer and ice cream just down the way from where the spectators sit.
Finally, are you wondering about the title of this post? Thank the guide that was with my boat today... With his decision to steal people from other boats as we passed, he made our "team" feel all the more piratey. Looking to pilfer and plunder in northeastern Korea!
I'll be going on this trip again next week...
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Sweltering Seoul
Bukchon Culture Center/북촌한옥마을
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=561382
The Bukchon Culture Center is the gateway into the Bukchon Hanok Village of Seoul, located between the two heavyweights of royal palaces: Gyeongbokgung and last Thursday's excursion, Changdeokgung. The Culture Center is open free of charge, and they have a Hi! Seoul Greeter staffed there, at least on Saturday mornings. On display in the house is a good overview of what hanok is, and there are some cultural activities that the tourist can do, for a price. Decorate paper fans, for instance. Very useful on a day like today.
My plan was, then, to follow the "Samcheong-dong Walk" from the latest issue ofLonely Planet's Seoul city guide. Now, maybe I'm directionally challenged. However, I was unable to find most of the landmarks that were included on the map for this walk. I ended up instead wandering close enough to the Blue House (Cheongwadae, Korea's answer to the White House) to be shooed away by security. As the map in the book doesn't include anything about the Blue House, I believe I may have gone in the wrong direction.
Bukchon is a hilly part of Seoul, however, and it was just too hot to wander about aimlessly in an attempt to find what LP said I should see. I did find some hanok, though. Hanok being the traditional style of Korean houses that were built by the yangban (nobility) so many years ago. I will post about it in more detail should I go back and properly see the Bukchon Hanok Village.
Insadong/인사동
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SH/SH_EN_7_2_2_1.jsp
http://www.oldteashop.com
Insadong also is a great place for buying souvenirs, if that's what you're looking for. I just happened to be looking for air-con and iced tea.
Cheonggye Stream/청계천
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264625
It is also extremely popular on warm days like today, as it is possible (though apparently officially discouraged) to sit with your feet in the water. There are no marts in the immediate area, but I would suggest stopping at a GS25 or the like along the way and picking up an ice cream or an ice cold drink to enjoy while people-watching.
Tomorrow I'll be going to the Hantan River in Gangwon-do, the northeastern province of Korea, for some rafting and bungee jumping. I'm off with Adventure Korea again, and it feels good! Assuming I survive my 53m jump Sunday afternoon, I'll be sure to post all about it.
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=561382
- admission: free
- subway: Line #3 (orange) to Anguk Station/안국역, exit #3 (five minute walk)
The Bukchon Culture Center is the gateway into the Bukchon Hanok Village of Seoul, located between the two heavyweights of royal palaces: Gyeongbokgung and last Thursday's excursion, Changdeokgung. The Culture Center is open free of charge, and they have a Hi! Seoul Greeter staffed there, at least on Saturday mornings. On display in the house is a good overview of what hanok is, and there are some cultural activities that the tourist can do, for a price. Decorate paper fans, for instance. Very useful on a day like today.
My plan was, then, to follow the "Samcheong-dong Walk" from the latest issue ofLonely Planet's Seoul city guide. Now, maybe I'm directionally challenged. However, I was unable to find most of the landmarks that were included on the map for this walk. I ended up instead wandering close enough to the Blue House (Cheongwadae, Korea's answer to the White House) to be shooed away by security. As the map in the book doesn't include anything about the Blue House, I believe I may have gone in the wrong direction.
Bukchon is a hilly part of Seoul, however, and it was just too hot to wander about aimlessly in an attempt to find what LP said I should see. I did find some hanok, though. Hanok being the traditional style of Korean houses that were built by the yangban (nobility) so many years ago. I will post about it in more detail should I go back and properly see the Bukchon Hanok Village.
Insadong/인사동
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SH/SH_EN_7_2_2_1.jsp
http://www.oldteashop.com
- admission: free
- subway: Line #3 (orange) to Anguk Station/안국역, exit #6 (five minute walk)
Insadong also is a great place for buying souvenirs, if that's what you're looking for. I just happened to be looking for air-con and iced tea.
Cheonggye Stream/청계천
http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264625
- admission: free
- subway: Line #1 (dark blue) or Line #2 (green) to City Hall Station/시청역, exit #4 (ten minute walk)
It is also extremely popular on warm days like today, as it is possible (though apparently officially discouraged) to sit with your feet in the water. There are no marts in the immediate area, but I would suggest stopping at a GS25 or the like along the way and picking up an ice cream or an ice cold drink to enjoy while people-watching.
Tomorrow I'll be going to the Hantan River in Gangwon-do, the northeastern province of Korea, for some rafting and bungee jumping. I'm off with Adventure Korea again, and it feels good! Assuming I survive my 53m jump Sunday afternoon, I'll be sure to post all about it.
Friday, June 26, 2009
Palace of Prospering Virtue
Changdeokgung/창덕궁/昌德宮
http://www.visitseoul.net/changdeokgung
However, the best option is Thursday, the day with no tours. Why would this be best? Because for a mere W15,000, the visitor that has gone to Changdeokgung on this day is granted a self-guided tour. More of the palace grounds are available to be seen, including more of the Secret Garden, it is less crowded, and there is a traditional music (국악) concert performed at two times each day. I happened upon the 16:00 concert.
Those new to Seoul, though, may be reading this thinking, "What is a Changdeokgung?" Please allow me to enlighten you. Changdeokgung is a UNESCO world heritage site, and has been since December 1997, due to it's being an, "outstanding example of Far Eastern palace architecture and garden design". As such, all visitors are required to join a guided tour which takes approximately one hour and twenty minutes. A "self-guided" tour is available on Thursdays from 09:15 until 18:30 from April to November for W15,000. These tours include an audio guide. I suppose that you would have to ask for the audio guide explicity, though, as I didn't and as such didn't have one to listen to. Thankfully, I've been to this palace on numerous occassions.
Changdeokgung/창덕궁/昌德宮 is also known as the "Palace of Prospering Virtue" (or the "Palace of Illustrious Virtue" in the current Lonely Planet Seoul city guide) and the East Palace. It was first built in 1405, in the fifth year of King Taejong of the Joseon Dynasty, and completed about seven years later in 1412. It was the second palace to be built, following Gyeongbokgung. After the Imjin Invasion by the Japanese (1592 - 1598), the site of Gyeongbokgung was considered to be ill-omened and King Gwanghaegun (1608 - 1623) rebuilt Changdeokgung. Although there was an incidence of arson at the palace in 1623 during Injo's revolt against Gwanghaegun, Chandeokgung served as the seat of government from 1610 until 1872, largely due to Gyeongbokgung having been burnt down and not rebuilt until King Gojong, in the late 1800s.
The main draw of the palace, however, is the "Secret Garden" or Biwon/비원. The rear garden was built during the reign of King Taejong (1400–1418), and was used by royal family members as a place of relaxation. It wasn't named Biwon until the time of the last real Joseon monarch, King Gojong (1863 - 1897). The garden was kept as natural as possible, and human hands were only used when absolutely necessary. Perhaps this is why UNESCO lauds it as having, "buildings integrated into and harmonized with the natural setting" and for, "adapting to topography [while] retaining indigenous tree cover". What makes the self-guided tour so appealing is that areas such as Ongnyucheon/옥류천, where the Joseon kings composed sijo poetry and played with planting rice, are only available to be seen on these Thursdays.
The best and most beautiful time to visit both Changdeokgung and the Secret Garden is in early autumn, when the foliage just begins to turn colors and to fall, but it's not yet too cold. For smaller groups on the tours, Saturdays are best avoided. The tours are still a fine way to see the palace, and the palace should be seen, but the best way would be to make it there on a Thursday before 16:30, as that's the last entrance.
Overall, it was a great way to spend a Thursday afternoon off, even if it was a bit pricier than what I would pay on my normal Thursday schedule. I do feel as though I got my money's worth thanks largely to the concert that was being performed, and I would recommend trying to schedule a visit around those times. The goal of relaxing after reigning in crazy Korean kindergarteners all morning was most definitely achieved.
Now, I just need to think about what to do tomorrow...
http://www.visitseoul.net/changdeokgung
- admission: W3,000
- English language tours: 11:30, 13:30, 15:30 (except Thursdays)
- subway: Line #3 (orange) to Anguk Station/안국역, exit #3 (five minute walk); Lines #1, #3, #5 (dark blue, orange, purple) to Jongno-3ga Station/종로3가역, exit #6 (ten minute walk)
However, the best option is Thursday, the day with no tours. Why would this be best? Because for a mere W15,000, the visitor that has gone to Changdeokgung on this day is granted a self-guided tour. More of the palace grounds are available to be seen, including more of the Secret Garden, it is less crowded, and there is a traditional music (국악) concert performed at two times each day. I happened upon the 16:00 concert.
Those new to Seoul, though, may be reading this thinking, "What is a Changdeokgung?" Please allow me to enlighten you. Changdeokgung is a UNESCO world heritage site, and has been since December 1997, due to it's being an, "outstanding example of Far Eastern palace architecture and garden design". As such, all visitors are required to join a guided tour which takes approximately one hour and twenty minutes. A "self-guided" tour is available on Thursdays from 09:15 until 18:30 from April to November for W15,000. These tours include an audio guide. I suppose that you would have to ask for the audio guide explicity, though, as I didn't and as such didn't have one to listen to. Thankfully, I've been to this palace on numerous occassions.
Changdeokgung/창덕궁/昌德宮 is also known as the "Palace of Prospering Virtue" (or the "Palace of Illustrious Virtue" in the current Lonely Planet Seoul city guide) and the East Palace. It was first built in 1405, in the fifth year of King Taejong of the Joseon Dynasty, and completed about seven years later in 1412. It was the second palace to be built, following Gyeongbokgung. After the Imjin Invasion by the Japanese (1592 - 1598), the site of Gyeongbokgung was considered to be ill-omened and King Gwanghaegun (1608 - 1623) rebuilt Changdeokgung. Although there was an incidence of arson at the palace in 1623 during Injo's revolt against Gwanghaegun, Chandeokgung served as the seat of government from 1610 until 1872, largely due to Gyeongbokgung having been burnt down and not rebuilt until King Gojong, in the late 1800s.
The main draw of the palace, however, is the "Secret Garden" or Biwon/비원. The rear garden was built during the reign of King Taejong (1400–1418), and was used by royal family members as a place of relaxation. It wasn't named Biwon until the time of the last real Joseon monarch, King Gojong (1863 - 1897). The garden was kept as natural as possible, and human hands were only used when absolutely necessary. Perhaps this is why UNESCO lauds it as having, "buildings integrated into and harmonized with the natural setting" and for, "adapting to topography [while] retaining indigenous tree cover". What makes the self-guided tour so appealing is that areas such as Ongnyucheon/옥류천, where the Joseon kings composed sijo poetry and played with planting rice, are only available to be seen on these Thursdays.
The best and most beautiful time to visit both Changdeokgung and the Secret Garden is in early autumn, when the foliage just begins to turn colors and to fall, but it's not yet too cold. For smaller groups on the tours, Saturdays are best avoided. The tours are still a fine way to see the palace, and the palace should be seen, but the best way would be to make it there on a Thursday before 16:30, as that's the last entrance.
Overall, it was a great way to spend a Thursday afternoon off, even if it was a bit pricier than what I would pay on my normal Thursday schedule. I do feel as though I got my money's worth thanks largely to the concert that was being performed, and I would recommend trying to schedule a visit around those times. The goal of relaxing after reigning in crazy Korean kindergarteners all morning was most definitely achieved.
Now, I just need to think about what to do tomorrow...
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